Travel & Holidays in later lifeThe greatest sightseeing highlight of the Belgian capital
is the Grand'Place. Quite apart from the permanent visual feast in one of Europe's finest
city squares, several major festive events are centred on this traditional
marketplace. Every year, a 3-day jazz marathon takes place in mid-May, with some shows elsewhere in the city. For 2008 it's 23-25 May. Then on July 1-3 hordes of actors in 16th-century costume re-enact a historic procession called the Ommegang Renaissance, complete with horses and jousters - 1400 performers altogether.
They start from Sablon Church, and you can watch along the route. Three thousand seats in the Grand'Place itself are available by ticket only, bought in advance. Check the dates from the Belgian Tourist Office for Brussels & Wallonia in London. In mid-August 2008 the Grand'Place will be covered with a gigantic flower carpet, using ten colours of 700,000 begonias. This event is held every second year. Best of all, throughout December the Grand'Place with a few stalls is starting-point for an annual European Christmas market that reaches to the former Fish Market - Place Sainte Catherine. Products from all over Europe are on display, while jugglers, musicians and painters
entertain among the stalls that sell crafts, toys, delicacies and wines. Decorations vary,
but typically the city planners may decide to give the event a country look, with lit-up
cows and sheep floating in the air. When the city expanded outside its 12th-century walls, a second line of
fortifications arose in the 14th century. By the 18th century, with still further city
expansion, the walls had become a nuisance, and Napoleon had them removed. The square and its surrounding wooden houses were set ablaze. All that survived was the Town Hall, damaged but not destroyed. Out of the ruins a new Grand'Place arose, with the guild houses of the wealthy trade guilds rebuilt in stone. In four years the job was done, all in Italian Baroque style, with each guild rivalling its neighbour in lavish decoration. Overlooking everything is the Town Hall, though the lack of balance led to an accusation that the architect was drunk when he designed it.Each side of the square is packed shoulder-to-shoulder with civic buildings. Gold-leaf decorations sparkle in the sunshine or glow in the evening floodlighting. Every building has a story. Like all good Belgian city-centre squares, whenever you're gripped by hunger and thirst, there are numerous taverns and restaurants within easy reach. 
Explore
the very narrow street called La Petite Rue des Bouchers. A former centre of the meat
trade, it's now totally lined with restaurants. Just wander along and inspect the menus in
what's known as 'The Stomach of Brussels'.Despite the original meat connection, many of the eating places are dedicated to seafood. Chez Leon, for instance, is Europe's most famous restaurant for mussels, with branches in other cities including Paris. During warm weather you can do your Grand'Place sightseeing sitting down with a coffee or beer at one of the square's outdoor bar terraces. If you can spare the time, remember that Belgium boasts a selection of 400 different brews. The most popular tourist symbol of Brussels is the Mannekin-Pis fountain of a nude boy. He has leaked away for centuries, but still hasn't finished. The Mannekin is reproduced in every imaginable souvenir style. There's a custom of dressing him up in national costumes and uniforms during the year, mainly on special days for various trades and guilds. Six hundred costumes are displayed in the Museum of Brussels, housed in the Maison du Roi in the Grand'Place. There's even an Elvis Presley outfit.  Despite its appearance, the Maison du Roi (or the Bread Hall in Flemish) is not medieval. It was built in late 19th century, on the site of the original Bread Market. There's a museum of the development of Brussels on the first floor and historical paintings on the top floor, where the Mannekin-Pis costumes are displayed. If you go around the corner to the Rue de la Colline, lined with chocolate shops, you can buy Mannekin-Pis in edible form.
Read what else to see in Belgium BELGIUM - Flanders in a nutshell ANTWERP for Rubens and rocks BRUGES - fast track to the Middle Ages FLANDERS - Visit Ypres for Flanders Fields GHENT - A central base for Belgium's art cities "Books to read - click on cover pictures" or click on the links below Brussels (Eyewitness Travel Guides) - Everything you need to know during a long or short stay in the Belgian capital. "Time Out" Brussels: Antwerp, Ghent and Bruges - Another rival guidebook to the four great art cities. Flemish Cities Explored: Bruges, Ghent, Antwerp, Mechelen, Leuven and Ostend (Pallas for Pleasure) by Anthony Blunt - Excellent choice for anyone who wants to stay longer in Belgium, and explore the highlights in detail on foot. The Rough Guide to Brussels - Good coverage of hotels, bars and restaurants at all levels, together with all the sightseeing highlights. Also describes day trips to Bruges, Ghent and Antwerp.
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